Flower Crochet Tutorial - The Crafty Co

Flower and Granny Square Tutorial

Flowers are a wonderful embellishment in the crochet world and look fantastic on cushions and blankets.  As pretty as they are, it can be very time consuming sewing them to your projects, so here at The Crafty Co, we have designed a pattern for a pretty flower and a tutorial to attach your flowers to a granny square. With easy to follow instructions, you will be creating beautiful projects in no time.
 Once you have made your flower, you can continue to add a granny square around it.  It's up to you then to add as many or as few rounds as you like.   

Why not make several and join them together to make a cushion panel.  You could either make two panels so the back and front are the same, or make the back plain so you can have two cushion designs for the price of one.


They make great blankets too, you could make a whole blanket with flower squares or dot them randomly in the blanket.

Here is a panel with a single flower in the middle and we have made it into a cool tote bag,

There really is no limit to how versatile these little gems are

In these tutorials, you will notice that we are using a huge hook compared to the weight of my yarn.  This is purely so you guys can hopefully see the stitches clearer.  We are using a DK yarn and would normally use a 4mm or maybe even a 3.5mm hook

1st Round - To begin, use the magic ring method and work 8 double crochets into the centre of the ring. Close the ring with a slip stitch into the first double crochet worked

For the next round,  think of it as creating a basket to put the petals in.  We only need 5 petals in the first set, but we need to be prepared for future rounds which will each have 8 petals, so this is why we start with 8 double crochets in the first round

2nd Round - Work a 3 chain (this counts as a half treble and a 1 chain), We now need to work the sequence (1 half treble, 1 chain) into the remaining 7 stitches in this round, finishing on the 1 chain.  To close the round work a slip stitch in the 2nd stitch of the 3 chain worked at the beginning.

3rd Round - As we only need 5 petals in this round, we do not need to work our petal sequence in every space as 5 into 8 simply doesn't go.  As you will see in the video above, we work our petals as even as we can in the 8 spaces. Personally, I like to do the 5th petal in the last remaining space, so that I can easily work the slip stitch that closes the round. My 5 petals are worked in the 1st, 3rd, 4th, 6th and 8th spaces.  Remember the sequence for each of the petals in this round are (1dc, 1ch, 2tr, 1ch, 1dc)

4th Round - In this round we need to work another basket for the next round of petals.  In the next and subsequent round of petals we will have 8 in each round, so we need to create 8 spaces.

Work a one chain and turn your work around so that you have the wrong side facing you. We will use the half treble stems from the 2nd round and work behind them with our treble stitches. To start, we need to get the yarn at the back of our work so we do a slip stitch behind the half treble stem directly below.  Next, work a 5 chain (this will count as a treble and a 2 chain) which is the sequence for this round.  Work a treble behind the next stem and then do a 2 chain.  Keep doing this sequence (1tr, 2ch) for the remaining 6 half treble stems, ending on a 2 chain and close the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the 5 chain worked at the beginning 

We now have our basket to work our next round of petals in.  

5th Round - Work a 1 chain and turn your flower so that you have the right side facing you. For this round we work into each of the 8 spaces we created in the last round and the sequence for each petal is (1dc, 1ch, 3tr, 1ch, 1dc) repeat this 8 times into each space. Close the round with a slip stitch into the 1st petal space of this round

6th Round - Work a 1 chain and turn your flower, so you have the wrong side facing you. As in previous basket round do a slip stitch into the stem directly below your yarn. The next round creates another basket, but we start with a 6 chain this time, as we will have more stitches worked in each space.  Working the extra stitch allows for this and will make the petal sit nice and flat. So work a 6 chain (this counts as a treble and 3 chain) Work this sequence (1tr, 3ch) behind each of the remaining 7 stems ending on a 3 chain.  Close the round with a slip stitch into the 3rd stitch of the 6 chain worked at the beginning of the round

7th - Round - For the final round of petals, the sequence is slightly different in the fact that the middle stitch of the petal is a double treble.  This gives it a bit more height in the centre and changes the look of the petal.  Work a 1 chain and turn your flower so that you have the right side facing you and work the following sequence into each of the 8 spaces in this round (1dc, 1ch, 2tr, 1dtr, 2tr, 1ch, 1dc) and as usual complete the round by slip stitching into the 1st petal space 

How to: Up cycled books - The Crafty Co

It's hard to believe, but half term is fast approaching.  These super cute book animals would make a fab project for a cold or rainy afternoon, and you will end up with a really useful note or pen holder that will be admired by all

These are not suitable for small children, due to small parts

If you fancy having a go at making one, below is a step-by step picture tutorial

How to: seamless joining - The Crafty Co

For years, when joining my yarn I would knot the two ends together tightly, and hope that when the knot had been worked past, it would fall in the right place and not show too much.  It never really did and even after the ends had been sewn in, it would show slightly.

I then came up with the solution to do the opposite and work with a really loose knot.  The results were amazing and you too can achieve this effect as below


How to: crochet in Rounds - The Crafty Co


Crocheting in rounds can be a bit daunting and people always ask me, why does their circle curl up or turn into a funny shape

This can be due to a couple of things - If you find that it doesn't look round, it's just a case of making sure your increase doesn't always fall in the same place on each round

For work that is curling, it could be your tension, but is more than likely to be that you haven't got the right amount of increases in the round

As a rule, I personally like to work in rounds that increase by 6 each time. I find it gives me a nice flat circle and is easy to work out the increases

I always use a stitch marker, then if the doorbell or the phone rings, I can just unpick back to the marker and won't have to start again. Also, my logic for working in rounds, means I always work the round in six segments so when I get back to the stitch marker I know I am back to the start

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