Crochet Corner

Pointsettia C2C Square


Good afternoon from a wet and windy day here at The Crafty Co. I can't think of a better 
way to spend it, sitting in the warm, working on a C2C square. I have recently found a 
wonderful blogger, who has created the most stunning Christmas Afghan. You can find her 
There are some amazing squares, that I am frantically working through in time for 
Christmas, but I wanted 12 so I have designed a couple of my own to finish the project.
One of my most vivid memories at Christmas, is seeing a Poinsettia sitting on my nan's 
table. I fell in love with this beautiful flower, and now continue this tradition in my own home 
for the duration of the festive period.  A fellow crafter also suggested a square with a 
Poinsettia and this was my inspiration for creating the square below





Please note: Instead of the traditional C2C method of using UK Term Trebles and chain 3's to make each pixel,  UK Term, HTR’s (Half Trebles) were worked and a 2 chain (and a 5 chain was worked on the increase instead of 6). This made the stitches on the afghan square smaller, with the overall square measuring approximately 15×15 inches. 

The graph is below and the row numbers are located at the start of each row so you know which way the rows are worked






Rows are worked as below



When working with any C2C graph, a top tip is to sew your ends in every few rows, so that they don't become tangled.I would love to see your pictures of my Pointsettia square and if you need any help, please message me me



Happy Crocheting

The Crafty Co 

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Buttons buttons everywhere


We all have them.............buttons !

Over the years I have accumulated loads and loads of buttons but can never find the right one when I need it. As a crafter, I hate not being able to use things, so have decided to use them with one of my passions - Crochet

I racked my brains trying to find a way of getting the thread through the holes as my crochet hook didn't fit, and came up with a great idea using a product I would normally use with my jewellery making.  The button in the picture above only has two holes, so I had to go through the same hole a number of times, but the result turned out much better than I thought it would


In the flowers below I kept the colour of the yarn the same throughout, which gave me the opportunity to use up all my odd buttons which I then used as embellishments 




No more wasted buttons for me


Crocheting in Rounds


Crocheting in rounds can be a bit daunting and people have said to me that when they do, their work turns into a funny shape or curls up

This can be due to a couple of things - If you find that it doesn't look round, it's just a case of making sure your increase doesn't always fall in the same place on each round

For work that is curling, it could be your tension, but is more than likely to be that you haven't got the right amount of increases in the round

As a rule, I personally like to work in rounds that increase by 6 each time. I find it gives me a nice flat circle and is easy to work out the increases

I always use a stitch marker, then if the doorbell or the phone rings, I can just unpick back to the marker and won't have to start again. Also, my logic for working in rounds, means I always work the round in six segments so when I get back to the stitch marker I know I am back to the start

I work in UK terms Double Crochet throughout

I begin with 6 dc in my first round. I adopt the magic ring method, but you could also use the chain method to make your starter ring

Starting with 6dc means that each of the following rounds will have an increase of 6 stitches

In the pic below you can see that I need to work 2 double crochets into each of my starting 6 stitches and once I have reached the stitch marker I have 12 stitches




Next our increase of 6 means we will go from 12 to 18 stitches. To work out where we need to increase we use our 6 times table(because we want to increase by 6). We have 12 stitches at the moment in our round, so 12 divided by 6 = 2 so therefore we need to increase every 2nd stitch

I like to increase in the first stitch as it hides the transition from the previous round. The sequence for this round is (2 dc into next stitch, 1 dc) and in total you will do this 6 times

This is where I now like to work in sixes as I am going round.  It doesn't really matter for the first few rounds, but once your work grows and you are working with a lot of stitches, it makes it much easier to think of the round as six segments




Next our increase of 6 means we will go from 18 to 24 stitches. 18 divided by 6 = 3 so we need to increase every 3rd stitch. The sequence for this round is (2dc into next stitch, 1dc,1dc) six times




Remember to keep moving your stitch marker into the first stitch of the round

Next our increase of 6 means we will go from 24 to 30 stitches. 24 divided by 6 = 4 so we need to increase every 4th stitch. This increase is the last one where I increase at the beginning of each sequence, as this is where your project starts to take on the shape of a hexagon.  This is because you are increasing each round in the same place every time, so your work will naturally have sides and not be round
The sequence for this round is (2dc into next stitch, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) six times




This next part may sound confusing but once you have got your head round it, this is how you will do every other round

As you will see below, I have broken the round into 6 segments. This round starts with 30 stitches so 30 divided by 6 = 5. You now need to think of the round as 6 segments of 5 stitches and we need to increase one stitch in each of those six segments so that 5 stitches become 6. 

Hope that makes sense so far :)

I like to do the increase in the middle stitch so if I increase in the 3rd stitch of each of the six segments, then I will have 2 stitches each side to make it look nice and even - the sequence for this row in each of the segments will be (1dc, 1dc, 2dc into next stitch, 1dc, 1dc) and by the end of the round my 5 stitches have increased to 6 in each segment





I now have 36 stitches and 36 divided by 6 = 6  When I do this calculation and the answer is an even number (in this case 6), that's when I increase at the beginning of each segment. 6 stitches will turn into 7, so I work the sequence (2dc into next stitch, 1dc,1dc,1dc,1dc,1dc) If you count to total number of stitches who now have in the sequence you will count 7, so you  know that you are on the right track.




You will now have 42 stitches so 42 divided by 6 = 7 As the number is odd you will now do the increase on the middle stitch of the segment like we did two rows before.  The middle stitch will be stitch 4 so you do your increase in that stitch and you will have 3 stitches each side of the increase




For the start of the next round you will have 48 stitches and 48 divided by 6 = 8 so as it's an even number, we do the increase at the beginning of each segment. 

Just a quick point on how to count the stitches in each segment as you are working in the round. If for example I have 96 stitches at the start of my round, 96 divided by 6 = 16, remember even numbers means you do the increase at the start of the segment, so I would do the 2 dc into the first stitch and then count 15 more and do this for all of the 6 segments 
The next round would start with a 17 st sequence, and being an odd number I need to increase in the middle stitch - to find this add 1 to the starting number (17 for this round) and divide by 2, which is 9 so you will do your increase on stitch 9, so work 8 dc's then 2dc's into stitch 9 and then 8 more and start the sequence again. So that means if you start with a 19 st sequence 19 + 1 = 20 and 20 divided by 2 = 10 so you work 9 dc's, 2dc's into stitch 10 and then work 9 more for that sequence.
This does sound really complicated, but once you have got it, you'll never look back  

Just continue with this method and you can keep going and going and going and your work will stay beautifully round.



The picture above shows the increases done in the middle of the sequences on every other row

The picture below shows how it would look if you did your increase in the same place every time


Perfect though if you would like to make hexagons 

Below is a chart for a 20 round pattern.
If you continue working on the same theory you could go on forever and make a huge circle



I hope you have fun trying out this method and let me know if you need any help at all

Happy Crocheting

The Crafty Co

Crochet Jar Covers


I absolutely hate throwing things away and am always looking for ways to upcycle everyday objects that would otherwise be heading for the bin

I have an obsession with saving glass jars and using them to keep all sorts in - pens, hooks, knitting needles, stationary and lots more things - tall jars are great as vases and cost next to nothing to make. They are really boring to look at bare so I make them jackets using jute (garden twine) to make them look very chic

From this 


To this



This is a quick, fun and easy project so grab your crochet hook and some old garden twine and give them a go

You will need:


Empty jars
Jute (garden twine)
Scissors
Crochet hook
Big eye darning needle
Stitch marker (optional)

Firstly a quick note about jute - there are different quality ones in the shops and I have used most. In my opinion, the only real difference in the cheaper ones, is it tends to be more lumpy and not as refined, but it does give a more rustic look, so it really comes down to personal preference. It can also be a little bit harder on the hands, trying to work the thicker bits that appear along the yarn, but if you slacken the tension slightly its fine

Right lets get started

In this tutorial I have used the cheaper twine and a 5.5mm hook, which was fairly hard going as the hook was a bit too small, but it did give me a tighter tension, which was the effect I was looking for

If you are new to working with this medium, then start with a slightly bigger hook and if the tension is too loose for you, work down hook sizes until you find one that you are comfortable with and like the effect it achieves

First work a chain that is longer than the circumference of your chosen jar



I always make my chain longer than needed, as it is much easier to unpick any excess that you have after the first row has been completed

Once you have your foundation chain work a treble into the 3rd chain from the hook




The stitch to the far right looks like a real treble but is made up of the missed chains making it the dummy treble




Continue to work back along the foundation chain with treble stitches until your chain is just shorter than the circumference of your jar




We need to make it slightly shorter so that it hugs the jar 
We don't want it to fall off when we pick the jar up 

We do however need to have a total number of trebles on this row that is divisible by 4 - I had 32 stitches on my base row so I knew that I would have a pattern with 8 sets of stitches in each row

If you find that you are struggling to get the right length you may need to change your hook size 

Once you are happy with the length of your base row, close the row by working a slip stitch into the top chain of the dummy treble worked at the beginning of the row

Make sure that your work isn't twisted before you close it




Once you are happy with the base row, simply unpick the excess chains, up to the bottom of the dummy treble worked at the beginning




Work a slip stitch in-between the trebles to the left of your hook
to centralise your yarn ready to start the next row




As I have already done a slip stitch, I personally like to work a two chain at the beginning of my rows as it gives me perfect height for a treble but if you prefer, work a 3 chain which will count as your dummy treble




Now work a further 3 trebles into the bottom of this chain to complete one pattern on this row




As I have 32 stitches, 32 divided 4 = 8 so I will complete 8 sets of these in total for this round

Next, miss 3 chains and work 4 trebles into the next chain space - for this row I like to work the trebles into the top of the stitch as opposed to the big gap at the bottom 






Continue in this way until you have completed the correct number of sets of 4 trebles - if you have done it right, then before you close the round you should have a 3 chain space


To close the round work a slip stitch into the top chain of the dummy treble worked at the beginning of the round





For the next round we will working the set of 4 treble stitches in the middle of the previous row set of stitches. To get to the right place in order to start the next row, we need to work a slip stitch in the middle space of the previous rows 4 trebles to the left of your hook




Now work a 2 or 3 chain (whichever you prefer) to make your dummy treble 





Then work a further 3 trebles into the previous rows centre space




To complete the round, work 4 trebles into each of the previous rounds centre space in the treble pattern and close the round with a slip stitch into the top chain of the dummy treble at the beginning of the round




Every now and then, fit the cover on to the jar to see how many rounds you need to complete

As you will see, as mine is a small jar, I'm already nearly at the top so I just need to work a closing round




With most jars, they naturally get slightly thinner at the top, so I need to make a closing round that is slightly smaller than the ones I have been doing

For my closing round I work a simple round of trebles - but to ensure that this round is tighter, I work fewer trebles than in the previous round




As above work a 2 or 3 chain (whichever you prefer) to make your dummy treble and then work a treble into each of the pattern spaces but do not work a treble in the larger spaces between the 4 treble patterns - that way you will work 8 less trebles on this round and create a nice tight round that will hug the neck of your jar

This round may be a bit of trial and error, if you find the neck is too tight perhaps work a treble stitch in a couple of the large spaces evenly in the round

Close the round with a slip stitch in the top chain of the dummy treble worked at the beginning





Put the cover on your jar to check that you are happy with the fit




Now all you need to do is sew the ends in using a large eyed darning needle 




I like to weave my ends back and forwards and back again to ensure that it won't unravel

All you need to do now is fill it with your hooks !




You can add a bit of glamour with a ribbon




For the pot below I used chunky cotton yarn and worked in continuos rounds of double crochet.
It is better to use a stitch marker when making this design so you know where the start of the rounds are

Once it was almost the height I wanted, I worked a row of trebles and then slip stitched a top row. I was then able to easily thread a pretty ribbon through the trebles and it now sits on my dressing table with my make-up buds

Why not have a good at glamming up your jars and I would love to see what you make

If you have any questions just ask and happy crafting

Wendy
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